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I had a job interview today and had to cancel due to my 92' XJ not starting. All the gauges are registering as they should, and everything electrical works as it should. However, when I try to start the engine it just cranks and cranks.
I have had this issue in the past, and it was due to a faulty ballast resistor (ceramic resistor) that is mounted on the drivers side fender. I thought that was it, so I check the terminals and it broke into smaller pieces. So, since I needed to get going I grabbed a jumper wire from the garage and jumpered the two wires. Engine STILL would not start. So, I installed a brand new ballast resistor, new female spade ends and gobs of electrical grease and then shrink wrapped the leads onto the resistor. Tested it, still no fire. I checked the plugs, they look good.
I just drove it on Tuesday (2 days ago) and it started and restarted without an issue. However, it was taking a few more revolutions in order to fire, but I figure that was due to old plugs. But, the plugs look fine.
I'm at my wits end with this thing. The only thing that I can think of that would cause a situation like this is the CPS. However, I have NEVER had one fail in my jeep (like 6 in my saturn). So, I'm open to ideas. The weather has not been any colder than it was two days ago, and when we got that 11" is on tuesday and that is when I was out driving.
I'm open to ideas to check. I had to cancel my interview today and I hope that I get another opportunity. This has really made me want to just take the sawzall to the XJ.
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Ok, I ran through some stuff before the 20F weather set in on me.
CPS: Tested with my Actron sensor tester, and according to the tester it is ok. Signal light flashes when engine is cranked.
Spark: Used an inline SP light tester. Cranked the engine and the bulb lite up when it should.
Fuel: Typically when you turn the key to the notch right before you start it I typically heard the fuel pump prime. Now, I do not hear the fuel pump. This is a fuel pump that is less than two years old and it was purchased from Napa.
-- I have a full tank of gas (just filled up on tuesday 2.9.10). 87 octane
-- I have never had a vehicle with a frozen fuel line, so I do not know the symptoms.
Now, i'm really open to suggestions.
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problem is the ignition module.
FYI: when troubleshooting the ballast resistor, if replacing it with a solid
piece of wire doesn't fix the situation, replacing it with a new ballast
resistor won't, either.
US Navy Chief Petty Officer
91 XJ Sport - 4.0 HO, AW4, NP231, HP D30 4.56 Aussie, D44 4.56 Aussie, XRS8000, Armor, 6" lift, 32" Mudders, Cold Air Intake, 2.5" FM Exhaust
87 XJ
06 KJ Sport
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FYI, I've been running my Jeep without ballast resistor for 7 years now, and
have not replaced the fuel pump or the piece of wire I substituted for it.
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Unplug and then replug your crank position sensor.....I had to do that to mine every 10-12 months
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I know that since connecting the wires didn't work that changing out the ballast resistor wouldn't work. But, I bought two extras last time I had one fall apart. So, I figured I'd just run it again.
And the Ignition switch (located on the steering column) is a royal PITA. And it is a newish unit (1.5 yrs)old. I do have the original though.
However, since I didn't hear the fuel pump kick on and I have spark and the CPS tests out ok I'm going to check the ground on the fuel pump tomorrow and see how that is. Also check the fuse for the fuel pump. Maybe swap in a new fuel pump relay while I'm at it too.
Just weird how I had no issues on tuesday, it sits for a day with a full tank of gas and now now it won't start. But, shit happens.
Also, I pulled the code from the ECU and it is 55. And that is EOF so there is no code stored in the ECU. I would imagine if a sensor had failed that it would have kicked a code. At least it has in the past.
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Sorry to hear that you missed an interview, but I can't believe you didn't
walk away from the XJ and find another way to the interview... adapt and
overcome, brother!
You started off the troubleshooting on the wrong foot, but you're back on
track here:
CPS: Tested with my Actron sensor tester, and according to the tester it
is ok. Signal light flashes when engine is cranked.
-May, or may not be telling you anything worthwhile at this point.
Spark: Used an inline SP light tester. Cranked the engine and the bulb
lite up when it should.
-meaning you had high voltage to the plugs? That's a good start...
Typically when you turn the key to the notch right before you start it I
typically heard the fuel pump prime. Now, I do not hear the fuel pump. This
is a fuel pump that is less than two years old and it was purchased from
Napa.
-Definately a good observation, but not a 'test'.
I have a full tank of gas (just filled up on tuesday 2.9.10). 87 octane
--Okay, fair enough...
I have never had a vehicle with a frozen fuel line, so I do not know the
symptoms.
--Simple enough- if it's frozen, fuel will not flow. Usually they'll
sputter a bit, but on an EFI, a little fuel pressure is necessary to
actually get to that point.
Okay, cut your losses here and start from the beginning. You're pretty
certain there's spark, but don't 'PLAY' with it- put an old plug in one of
the wires, ground the body, and hit the key. White spark? If yes...
Grab some spray oil or something else somewhat flammable, and shoot it into
the intake, and crank'er again- does she fire? If so, it's a fuel feed
problem.
If the fuel line is frozen, probably a matter of the fuel, being ethanol
blend (hygroscopic) having a high enough water content to concentrate and
block the PUMP ROTOR from spinning. Solve this by dragging the XJ into a
warm garage overnight- it'll probably start in the morning, and once it
does, drive the fuel out of it, and put in some premium.
Unfortunately, the green-revolution has forced bio and ethanol blend into
every fuel-tank everywhere, all year 'round. While I'm all for using
renewable fuel sources, there are conditions where it's simply unwise to do
so... and in the case of ethanol blend, you can take a quart-sample, pour
it into a clear beaker, set it on a shelf for three weeks, and you'll SEE
the ethanol settle out to the bottom, and at the bottom of the ethanol,
there'll be a layer of water... which freezes nicely at 31F... which is
right where your pump rotor is. More than likely, when you bought your
fuel, there was a fair bubble of water sitting underneath that pickup tube,
and YOU bought it. :-\ I have this happen to the fuel tanks on my
tractors and generators, and I solve it by pulling the pickup tube up a
little higher in the tank, and by regularly dumping out the sediment bowls.
On the tractors, I've even taken off the bowl, and drained watery fuel out
for fifteen seconds or so (into a catch-can, of course) to get the crap
out, and then restarting... alas, sediment bowls are are nonexistent on
modern machines... apparently they're considered dangerous or ineffective
nowadays.
Check out my Jeep Cherokee
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The wife had an appointment today at the same time. And due to being unemployed for a little over a year taking a taxi from west bend to mequon was out of the question. I was caught between a hard place and a rock. I rescheduled though, and it is my second interview, and they were understanding and rescheduled for next week. If it were summer I would have just taken the bike, but being winter I only have one winter vehicle..my jeep.
I've had a streak of bad luck lately, and this jeep situation I hope is the third bad thing to happen (bad luck happens in streaks of three).
Later today I'll spray some start fluid into the TB and see if I can get it to pop. I have a buddy with a fuel pressure tester that I'm trying to get a hold of in order to test off the fuel rail. But, in the mean time I'm going to take off the cap and push the valve and see if anything comes out while I crank it over for a second. But, not hearing the fuel pump prime leads me to believe that it is fuel related, specifically the fuel pump. Is it froze? or Is there a fuse or relay that is bad? Or maybe a bad ground? I have my work cut out for me, I just hope that it gets above 20F today in the sun so that I can work on it.
I can't pull it into the garage as I have my summer car (project) that is still in pieces in there. So, that isn't an option. The best I could do is sit under the fuel tank with a heat gun and gently blow hot air onto the fuel tank for awhile. Not something I would like to do, but, taken with a degree of caution should be safe enough.
Also, I would imagine that if I pull the lead that goes to the fuel pump and hook the multi-meter up to it and then turn the key into the run position there should be 12v registering on the meter.
So many things, So very cold out :D
Thanks for the help, I'll reply back once I have done everything that I can do. Hope, it comes to a resolution.
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Man, I know what you mean. My jeep did something similar. Got into it after driving it to the store and no go. Just cranked away. A friend and myself had to push it a little ways to move it. Tried it again and it started! Yep, that sneaky position switch, which I call a POS switch. Just moving it a bit let it start. But there are so many other things that can go wrong, man I hate electrical problems!
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I swapped in a 5spd, so I no longer have that switch to worry about.
I tried it again just a few minutes ago and the same situation. It is just so cold out right now that trying to troubleshoot this in the cold is just not fun.
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I sprayed in some starter fluid and I got it to fire. So, I know the ignition system is doing it's job and the CPS is working like it should. I then moved onto what I think is the main source of the problem; The Fuel Pump. I checked the fuse block under the dash for any related fuses and nothing. I then checked the engine bay fuse block and there is only a relay in there. So, I swapped out another really from a 4.0 harness that I have to see if that would make a solution. Nope, nothing.
Purple: 12v (fluctuated between 18-12 but I think my meters battery is dieing)
Orange: -6v
Black: Had MM ground probe in
So, my question now is how can I safely test the fuel pump while mounted in a tank full of gas?
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Thanks for the feedback. I just have a feeling it is some shitty gas. Which sux as I paid $40.00 to fill my tank with the cheapest fuel. Where as I typically only get mid grade and a lesser amount.
I didn't think that the pump would freeze. But, hey shit happens. This is a first for me. But, I've only got 3 years of reformulated fuel usage under my belt. Before that it was non-reformulated fuel. Have to roll with it I guess.
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I figured today it would start as it was much warmer out. But, no go. Just out of curiosity, is it normal for the gas gauge to go all the way to the left while cranking the engine? I don't remember it doing that before.
If I insert the key, and turn the cylinder to the "on" position the fuel gauge slowly moves towards the full mark (as I have a full tank of gas). When I turn the cylinder into the "start" position and the engine rotates, the fuel gauge needle quickly goes all the way to the left.
I'm baffled.
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Aha! either your ignition switch isn't making it's full contact of all
circuits, or your fuel tank pump plate has a bad ground!!!
Check out my Jeep Cherokee
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If you shut off the ign where does the fuel gauge meter go?
Maybe a bad ign switch?
Try starting the engine using a remote starter AND the ign on.
Of course check cables to the battery and ground wires to the engine.
Check out my Jeep Cherokee
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I read most of your thread, had issue with extended crank on my 95 XJ, did not know previous owner quit driving it for that reason...her dad drove it for 3 weeks could not duplicate her problem, and I drove it for a month with no issues....after replacing alternator, battery, and cleaning up all the grounds, it started dying...whether parked and idling, or at 55 mph, it would just die...new crank sensor...no more problems...crank sensor problems can be intermittent..good luck
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