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#1 Re: Jeep Cherokee XJ Mechanical Questions » 01 sport 4 Hi doesn’t engage » 03-19-2019 15:53:21

I would suggest opening it up and looking for broken or missing parts. Could be as simple as some shift fork pads being missing which you can buy for 20 bucks. You never know until you open it up. I would look at an exploded view of your transfer case which I believe is an np231. Google it an it should come right up. To be sure there is a circular badge that has the model on it right on the outside of the case.

#2 Re: Jeep Cherokee XJ Mechanical Questions » Speedometer » 11-24-2015 18:19:38

The first place I would check is the speedo sensor. It is located on the transfer case. There is a gear in there that spins and helps calculate speed. If it is installed wrong it won't work. ...or if it is broken.

#3 Re: Jeep Cherokee XJ Mechanical Questions » 89 Jeep Sport w/4.0 engine » 09-21-2015 07:45:40

Pretty much reliable and inexpensive to operate, but I have only owned this Jeep for about 11 years and do not drive it every day.

Common problems:
Corrosion on wires/terminals
CranKshaft position Sensor
Throttle Position Sensor
EGR system.
RUST
Exhaust Manifold cracking (possible due to a failed front hanger/bracket)

I think most of the other stuff were maintenance items, like brakes, radiator, coolant bottle, U-Joints, Wheel Bearings, etc.

It helps if you have a scanner/reader/tester to determine which sensor might be causing problems.  ;-)

#4 Re: Jeep Cherokee XJ Mechanical Questions » new cylinder head » 09-14-2015 21:15:33

Since my '89 and '2000 were both casualties of a local shop performing a system flush without properly re-filling (and my wife driving it, and not calling me until AFTER the fact), I have TWO heads that have been planed down, one has been welded, and both still leak.

Depending on where the crack is, welding it may be an option, but from the crack locations I've seen in the later heads, a weld repair to the visible crack simply makes the remaining crack (the one between runner and jacket that you can't see) into your worst nightmare. If the cylinder head was say... three times larger, a deeper repair would make sense, both in access AND in cost, but I haven't been able to justify doing that again. Industrial and antique engines have the 'unobtainium' content with which to be concerned, but these are very plentiful, so picking the replacement option is the sensible first.

As far as valve guides, seals, etc... I wouldn't worry about that. Finding and boiling out a good used casting and magnafluxing it is the first step. Making the purchase, and paying for the cleaning/inspection is the risk, but the whole purpose of taking that risk, is to minimize losses in the event that the casting is bad... saves you the cost of doing all the other work and reassembly, and perhaps additional future damage. If it passes, having it skimmed to assure flatness, and getting proper finish for gasket, and the rest is garage-duty.

Knocking out valve guides is ridiculously easy... drive them out with a drift. Putting new ones in, is exactly the same, with exception that you need to make a tool that will engage and drive the new guide in, without damaging the guide. I use an old valve... and while big shops frequently have a special tool that establishes alignment, the guide rarely needs it, provided you 1) start it carefully and 2) drive it sensibly. I've pushed new valve guides into 4.0 heads... as well as 250 Chev's, SBCs, flathead Fords... even a Hercules JXLD and a Fairbanks-Morse ZC-118... never ruined a guide in ANY of 'em.

Drop in the valves, and take a lapstick to each one... won't take much, just enough to establish a clean pattern around the lip, so you know they all went in right. New valves are inexpensive, so if any look problematic (spalled, burned, or bent) just replace them. You can test springs on a flat workbench, just press against them, and note any that 'feel' weak. If you think you've got one that's sacked-out, take 'em to a shop, they'll pop 'em in the spring tester ( basically a bathroom scale with a lever to compress and take a reading) to verify. toss the bad ones in the junk box, and install new ones. It's not difficult (actually, rebuilding a head is kinda fun) and doesn't take long. If you've got a football-TV in the garage, it'll take you 2 games' worth of commercials.

#5 Re: Jeep Cherokee XJ Mechanical Questions » upper bellhousing bolts » 09-14-2015 10:53:17

Are you sure that they are 12 point capscrews?
Do they look like these?
http://www.modulemaster.com/images/Volvo/Volvo70_2.jpg
I think I did as you did and removed a shortblock and installed a shortblock so those bolts were easy to assess.
Having that cylinder head off was a great help!

I might have used a closed end wrench on them but I think I had a female torx socket that fit them.  It has been over 9 years so I have forgotten. I believe the size used was an E12

Uhhh how did you spin the mains?

BTW did you spray paint one of the torque converter bolt holes so you can
easily align the driveplate to the converter for the install?

#6 Re: General Jeep XJ Cherokee Forum » Door Swap » 09-14-2015 09:21:41

I vote NO since I think the that 2 door is larger.

$60 is not the best deal out there either since those U-Pull-It places sell them for less and should have quite a few 4 door XJs. You might even find an exact color match too!

Craigslist.org is an option too!

#7 Re: Jeep Cherokee XJ Mechanical Questions » What causes this engine sound » 09-14-2015 09:10:51

So you pulled the valve cover and everything looks good there including all of the push-rods that are straight?

Did you try shorting out the spark plugs one at a time to isolate which cylinder is giving you the problem?

Did you use an automotive stethoscope to listen around the engine? A long screwdriver might work too!

Did you make sure it is not a small crack in the exhaust manifold? Some heater hose might allow to pinpoint that noise.

Just uploaded a text file to the group "Diagnosing Engine Noises" which might help you locate the engine problem creating those noises!

Try to locate the problem before you tear everything apart!!!

#8 Re: Jeep Cherokee XJ Mechanical Questions » 2000 xj motor swap » 09-04-2015 11:53:47

Careful with Wrangler and Grand 4.0's, at some point the waterpump changed from four bolts to five, with the outlet pointing a different direction.  Thus they will not work well in xj's.  I don't know what year that happened.  You can tell on tj's by the location of the ac compressor being drivers side low.

#10 Re: General Jeep XJ Cherokee Forum » Weight capacity » 06-05-2015 07:36:16

JMHO
All at one time = bad idea!!!!
I hauled a pallet of landscaping bricks in my 82 Wag and it was squatting very low in the rear and made it a little hairy stopping and turning corners.  It seemed a little squirrely too but it managed to survive.
I would NOT subject an XJ to that and would use a rental trailer instead balancing the load so there it not too much weight on the tongue while putting some weight in the cargo area of the XJ!  That is how I hauled concrete with my XJ to make my concrete parking pads.  ;-)

#11 Re: Jeep Cherokee XJ Mechanical Questions » Engine idles high and clicking rocker » 06-05-2015 07:23:45

have you watched the ohm drop on the TPS once its started ?? your TPS may be failing, of the temp sensor is failing causing a cold start condition.. both were my issue... Justin had me void out the temp sensor on mine since it was not hooked up.. ( no emissions on mine since it's OHV only)

#12 Re: General Jeep XJ Cherokee Forum » Wet carpet and floor with holes in it - 96 Cherokee » 06-04-2015 10:04:36

Check those inner door panels!!!
I usually take off the first panel and watch for leaks while in a car wash or garden hose.
Window sealing plastic kits (with double-sided tape) were recommended by my dealer parts man as an inexpensive fix!  ;-)
Make sure there are no gaps or folds at or near the bottom since water will find a path!

#13 Re: General Jeep XJ Cherokee Forum » Wet carpet and floor with holes in it - 96 Cherokee » 06-04-2015 10:03:19

Also check your antenna grommet.  I had a leak in my 87 XJ and that antenna grommet was not positioned properly!

Been using your a/c?
Has it rained recently?
Do you have a rack on top of the Jeep?
How does the headliner look?
Upper Door Seals maybe?
Inner Plastic Door Panels still sealing well?

#14 Re: General Jeep XJ Cherokee Forum » Tie down » 06-04-2015 09:50:20

I load the jeep aired down as well... well... honestly, it doesn't know what real air pressure is anymore.  Bout the most it ever sees is when i accidentally put in 12psi instead of the usual 8-10.

#15 Re: General Jeep XJ Cherokee Forum » Tie down » 06-04-2015 09:48:48

Definitely tie it down front and rear. I used to use straps, I've moved onto chain now.  It's definitely more of a pain, but a good friend drove 18 wheels for his career, and he chewed me so bad about using straps I went to chain...


Got the chain at harbor freight on pretty good sale, and the binders are from Northern Tool. 

I was *REALLY* glad I had things chained down well this winter, when I had the ice-capades with the truck and trailer, and was all over 4 lanes of highway with almost zero control.  Car stayed on trailer, and I managed to keep the whole rig on the road.  I was *really* glad I had chains, and that they were properly tensioned.

#16 Re: Jeep Cherokee XJ Mechanical Questions » Crank Position Sensor » 11-09-2014 16:46:16

AND DON'T DROP ANY BOLTS IN THE BELLHOUSING!!!!

So use some paper towel to wedge/secure/lock those bolts into the socket before installing them.  Do the same for the socket to the extension if necessary!  ;-)

#17 Re: General Jeep XJ Cherokee Forum » Switch on Dash - Options vs. Model » 11-09-2014 10:56:26

I would bet that you have the Base trim package, like my '87 I had for a couple of years.  ;-)

from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jeep_Cherokee_%28XJ%29
Trim levels

    Base - 1984-1993
    SE - 1994-2000
    Wagoneer - 1984-1990
    Briarwood - 1991-1992
    Pioneer - 1984-1990
    Pioneer Olympic Edition - 1988
    Chief - 1984-1990
    Sport - 1988-2001
    Country - 1993-1997
    Classic - 1996, 1998-2001
    Limited - 1987-1992, 1998-2001
    Laredo - 1985-1992
    Freedom - 2000
    60th Anniversary - 2001

#18 Re: General Jeep XJ Cherokee Forum » Switch on Dash - Options vs. Model » 11-09-2014 10:30:57

AFAIK that 'POWER' switch changes the shift points of the automatic transmission.
In Power mode, light on, the shifts are coming a little later to allow the engine to rev up more.
Not too sure if you have a "light" foot that you will notice much of a change.  ;-)

I could be wrong though!
I keep mine in power mode and sometimes put the selector in 3 unless on the highway.

I have a Pioneer and it has a/c, am/fm/cass, tilt-steering, rear defrost, carpet, rear wiper and everything else standard or non-power.

#19 Re: Jeep Cherokee XJ Mechanical Questions » alternator upgrade » 11-09-2014 10:22:42

I have For  Sale a couple of new Coleman 400Watt converters that does not drain the alternator/battery much.  It can peak up to 800Watt, power two laptops, has a fan, plugs into power outlet or clamps to battery, and comes with a case.
Much cheaper than a new alternator!  ;-)

#20 Re: Jeep Cherokee XJ Mechanical Questions » alternator upgrade » 11-09-2014 10:21:27

SO if the battery is very low then the alternator will develop its max output to charge the battery up as quickly as possible putting more of a drain on the engine.  Of course this must be why some want the higher output alternator.
AND the stock alternator will charge that battery up but slower and with less of an engine drain.

Why have the power unless you plan to use it!  ;-)
Hmmm a definite upgrade IF needed.

#21 Re: Jeep Cherokee XJ Mechanical Questions » alternator upgrade » 11-09-2014 10:17:42

WOW a Datsun 1200, my family had a 1973? for 12,000 miles until it was totaled from the back.  It was my mom's first new car but she survived the accident without a problem, but that car was crushed.

Some people talk about saving fuel and others talk about increasing power.
Will the more powerful alternator also create a heavier load on the engine thereby increasing fuel consumption?
Do you plan on "needing" that extra powerful alternator?

#22 Re: Jeep Cherokee XJ Mechanical Questions » Transmission Input Shaft Modification » 10-09-2013 14:04:53

kram wrote:

The input shaft is 390.00 something

Sounds doable then although it would be nice to get an entire trans for that price!

#23 Re: Jeep Cherokee XJ Mechanical Questions » Transmission Input Shaft Modification » 10-08-2013 14:21:44

OK let me see if I understand the problem.
You bought a 1984-1989 XJ with a gas 2.5l engine and manual transmission.
You bought a diesel 2.1l Renault engine.
You bought a bellhousing for the 2.1l engine that also fits that manual transmission.
The input shaft is way too short, and BTW 5-6 inches is a lot!!!
Is this about right?

I will assume that finding the correct trans for the diesel engine, or even the input shaft is next to impossible to find.
Is this a T5 transmission?

Are there other bellhousings that will fit?
I had that problem when I was replacing my 4 cyl engine in my '67 Scout with a V8 engine.  I gave up and kept the 4cyl and sold my V8 engine.
Bellhousings were definitely different depths although my original 4 cyl bellhousing might have worked.  Young and dumb!  lol

So I see possibly 2 options to keep it stock yet still allow that diesel engine transplant.....................correct transmission or possibly shallower bellhousing.

Have you searched other countries?

#24 Re: Jeep Cherokee XJ Mechanical Questions » Driveshaft rust question » 10-01-2013 10:46:00

We just thought you just wanted your driveshafts to look new again!
I think you should be fine, but others will probably comment.

#25 Re: Jeep Cherokee XJ Mechanical Questions » 2000 Cherokee cracked head » 10-01-2013 08:48:59

I looked at a cheap 2001 or 2000 Friday, but the black paint was cracking and fading. :-(
It was only $3995 and did not look as good as a $2500 1997 black XJ sitting next to it on the dealer's lot.
I would have bought the 1997 over the 2001 just because of the head cracking stories I have heard.
Neither had perfect paint.

I walked away!
So how much did you pay?
I want one cheap too but the body & paint have to be nice! <g>
I am even tempted to try a Grand Cherokee. 8^o

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