Jeep XJ Forum

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#1 Re: Introductions » New to forum and my first jeep » 10-29-2015 16:11:49

Is it a different engine or the same as stock? These 4.0's are bombproof. They generally last a long time.

#2 Re: Jeep Cherokee XJ Mechanical Questions » 2000 Cherokee cracked head » 10-01-2013 10:41:48

Check to see if the heater core is leaking.  Why did it overheat in the 1st place?
The heater core and rad were leaking on the used 99 I bought my wife ... low coolant ... blew the head gasket ... then I damaged the clock spring replacing the heater core and evap core.

Nice find I am a big fan of the 242 it makes for easy winter driving.

One thing I have had to fix on both the 99 and the 01 is the power window switch.
There is a solder joint near the window lock / unlock button that breaks and then only the driver can roll down the windows.

If you ever remove the seats plan on one of the rear bolts that goes through the floor snapping off.

That is all I can think of.

#4 Re: Jeep Cherokee XJ Mechanical Questions » gear patterns » 02-23-2012 20:29:38

thats why I stopped trying to go off the gear markings. When regearing.
Just start with the old pinion shim thickness. its alot easier to find a
correct pattern from that.

#6 Re: Jeep Cherokee XJ Mechanical Questions » gear patterns » 02-23-2012 15:44:43

you said move .005. you didn't say .010...

#8 Re: Jeep Cherokee XJ Mechanical Questions » gear patterns » 02-23-2012 14:55:28

could try .008. But I wouldn't make that big of a jump.

#10 Re: Jeep Cherokee XJ Mechanical Questions » gears » 02-22-2012 09:52:19

easiest in your case is to start with the same shims that were in the old housing. check the pattern and go from there.

#11 Re: General Jeep XJ Cherokee Forum » D44 axle seal problem! » 02-20-2012 16:25:57

a10 should work . they are all the same axles. the only difference is the retainer plates. I actually know it as a set 10 bearing kit that comes with the seal.

#12 Re: General Jeep XJ Cherokee Forum » Passenger Power Windows Will Not Work » 02-15-2012 12:43:52

Maybe these pictures will make it more clear.

I pulled out the spare switch I have.

You don't have to cut the plastic on the bottom to get to the solder joint ... they were nice enough to put the joint that goes bad on top of the circuit board.

If you don't want to solder I can sell you my spare for a good price ... especially if you send me your old switch so I'd still have a spare.

#13 Re: General Jeep XJ Cherokee Forum » Passenger Power Windows Will Not Work » 02-15-2012 11:44:12

There is a solder joint that goes bad inside the switch. This keeps the passenger windows "locked" You can take it apart the switch and re-solder the connection.

The window lock unlock switch is connected to two circuit boards inside the switch the edges of the circuit boards flex and the solder joints to the switch come apart.

Pull the drivers door panel off again, remove the power window switch from the door.

use a butter knife and pry the black covers off the window switches ... which are clear plastic.

remove the screws on the back of the switch.

remove the top cover.

The back cover piece has the connector for the wire harness on it.
I think I had to cut a line in the plastic to be able to get to the back side of the circuit board where the bad solder joint is.
Don't worry the 4 screws hold it in place and you can cover the cut with duck tape.

Once inside the switch you'll see 2 circuit boards, one for the power window stuff one for the power mirrors.  The window lock unlock button is at the edge of these circuit boards and the solder joints crack.  re-solder them and put the whole thing back together.

Alternatively I have heard that you can jumper across a few of the wires so that the passenger windows will always be unlocked.
Sorry I don't know which wires those are off the top of my head.

#14 Re: Jeep Cherokee XJ Suspension and Lift Discussion » Trackbars » 11-13-2011 11:28:51

As you lift the vehicle more the axle gets off center a the new ride hight, adjusting the length of the track bar, or moving the mounting point over puts the front axle back under the wheel wells.

If the track bar is too long the axle will be of center the other direction, this pushes the axle to the passengers side. If you push it over too far you have interference issues with the front drive shaft hitting the exhaust down pipe.

I bought  an adjustable  track bar  for my 88 which has an OME lift on it ~2.5" to 3"  I'm running 31x10.5 bfg's  from rocky road,
It uses a replaceable tie-rod end so no changes are needed to the factory mount.
It seems heavy and nice enough but it does not adjust short enough to work with my small lift. So I went back to a factory track bar, well a replacement I got from pep-boys the tie rod end on the original was shot. A non-worn out tie rod set me back $55 the nicer but not usable until / if I lift more adjustable unit was $99.

#15 Re: Jeep Cherokee XJ Mechanical Questions » Leaky Fuel Injector » 10-27-2011 18:39:16

I had leaky injectors but they leaked externally, dripping fuel on the intake... that was fun.

It sounds like you are describing a high idle.
The 88 does this quite often, usually only when I start it up, for a few sec. It is much better when I keep the throttle body and in particular the IAS Idle air stepper motor, the round thing with 4 wires coming off of it.
It may require some torx bits to remove it.
Clean it out really well with intake cleaner.

The other thing that seems to work is I shut it off, then turn the ignition to start (but not engage the starter) then off again 10 times, it seems to clear whatever issue.

#16 Re: Off Topic Discussion » Cordless power » 09-26-2011 09:16:44

Dewalt is made by black and decker,  I had no problems with the dewalt tool I used to own but it would not be my 1st choice.

Makita is pretty good, the thing I do not like about their cordless tools is they glue/weld the battery case together so you can not take it apart to replace the cells... minor gripe I know. But the good thing is all their batteries are forward / backward compatible.

Milwaukee cordless makes some 28V lithium ion powered tools that I'd love to own

Bosch makes or did when I was working at the hardware store a line of cordless tools called brute tough ... those are the ones we used at the store that I never saw anyone break.

Hitachi ... I have a belt sander made by them ... it works and has easy to change brushes.
I hear they make good saws but haven't heard as good things about their cordless tools.

Metabo is a brand I learned about when I visited Germany heard good things about them.
Good grinders etc.

My experience with the cordless hamerdrills (any brand) is that they are kinda cheezy compared to a "real" corded hammer drill.

1330 in lbs is 110 ftlbs
milwaukee has an impact that will put out 325 ft lbs :)

My theory is if it is not worth fixing it was not worth buying.
A no name tool may work ok but if it has problems you can't get parts then you still have to spend the money to buy a real tool.

Buying the cheapest tool you can find is educational it shows you what to look for in a good tool that you would have taken for granted otherwise.

A cheap cordless has a wall wart charger that does not shut off automatically and takes all night to charge. (ie skill or black and decker is famous for this)
A cheap cordless drill does not have a brake so the bit keeps coasting when you let go of the trigger, the better tools not only have a brake but a lock so when stopped you don't have to hold the motor from rotating when working the keyless chuck.

When people look for a car battery they know to look for more cranking amps.
When those same people search for a cordless tool they forget all about amps and focus on voltage. A lower voltage tool with a higher Amp hour rating can out perform a cheap tool with a higher pack voltage and a lower current rating.

I have a 2.4 AH rated pack on my Milwaukee drill, it came with a 1.7 ah and I rebuilt one pack with cells from a HF drill rated at only 1 AH.
The difference between the HF pack and the 9 yr old 1.7 pack is noticeable, the new 2.4 ah pack blows everything else out of the water.

#17 Re: Jeep Cherokee XJ Suspension and Lift Discussion » steering/suspension » 09-26-2011 09:12:33

You can get driveline vibes if the angles are goofy or the slip yoke has extended so far out that it is woobley.

If you lifted your rear by using shackles that would tend to cause the pinion to rotate up, you can correct for this by installing tapered shims on top of the axle putting the wide end of the taper in front would rotate the pinion back to normal.

a transfer case drop kit installs between the cross member and the frame. So if the t-case was parallel with the ground before it will be pointing down to the rear and up in the front.

There are many things that can cause front end shimmy/ noise , a bad u-joint, a worn out tie-rod end on the track bar, the axle mounting hole for the same, swaybar links hitting on the front coils.

There are adjustable track bars to move the front axle back to center at your new higher ride hight. I found that at 2.5 - 3" the one I bought could not be adjusted short enough to work.
Some redrill the axle mounting hole, or do nothing at all.

#18 Re: Jeep Cherokee XJ Suspension and Lift Discussion » Add a Leaf » 07-06-2011 09:28:14

I probably have some pics on my home computer, but I will not be home until May 16, and currently only have my work laptop as I'm on a business trip ... :-(

You can do it w/o relocating the shock mounts ... stock shocks will be at near full extension, but will work. You could just buy some longer shocks for a 3" lift. I
was just never a big fan of the damn shock mounts on the XJ that hang 4" below the
axle tube and get hung up on everything, so I've normally just relocated the axle mounts and re-used the stock shocks.

#19 Re: Jeep Cherokee XJ Suspension and Lift Discussion » Add a Leaf » 07-06-2011 09:24:21

Front : 2" poly spacer(stacked with stock isolator)
Rear: Comanche or aftermarket shackles and extra XJ main leaf with eyes cut off

My experience has been that most stock XJs sit low in the back as the very soft stock leafs sag over time. After installing a BB(spacer/shackle) on such a vehicle, I've found the rear to appear even more squatted than before the BB install, as the 2" longer shackle only gives ~1" of lift at the rear tire/fender and the 2" spacer (when stacked with the stock front isolator) gives a full 2" of lift at the front tire/fender. Adding the extra stock rear main leaf(with eyes cut off) in conjunction with a longer shackle will bring the back up to ~2.5" or so at the rear tire/fender, leaving a nice look with a very slight rear to front rake (not 1970's hot rod rake)

#20 Re: Jeep Cherokee XJ Suspension and Lift Discussion » Add a Leaf » 07-06-2011 09:18:56

Just get out your grinder/cut-off wheel and cut the eyes off of your old main, and voila ... you've got yourself a full-length add-a-leaf that will net you ~2.5-3" total lift (at the wheel well) when combined with comanche(or longer aftermarket) shackles.
I've done this to three XJs, and was very pleased with the results. I experienced no adverse effects on ride quality(stiffness/harshness) and still get good flex off-road.
then just cut off/grind/reshape/weld the stock axle shock brackets up to the back of the axle tube and increase your ground clearance and re-use the stock shocks.

#21 Re: General Jeep XJ Cherokee Forum » Oil » 06-30-2011 21:06:50

I've been running mobil 1 10-30 for years, lately with all the stink about zink I've switched to M1 high mileage this is still an SL rated oil where the regular M1 and even the M1 extended performance are SM rated oils.
I've never been a fan of seal conditioners so until I heard about the increased zinc in the high mile oils I figured they were a scam.

I have seen royal purple and amsoil locally but finding it is not as easy as M1 which is at every walmart and even some gas stations.
I'd consider using either of these oils. I don't know how they compare in zinc content or otherwise, I suspect they are "good", but without more information it is hard to say if either is good enough to justify the added hassle.

Oil filters.
Mobil one makes a nice filter, the M1301 has a larger capacity than stock. has a write up on this. The older metric thread adapter can be replaced with a standard thread stud (no other parts needed) to uses this larger filter. You can find this larger filter an any other brand just do a cross reference from the M1 book or look for a late 80's ford truck filter.

If you want mopar filters they can be found at some walmart stores now, and the dealer sold them to me pretty cheap no box just the filter $5, and said they'd give me a discount if I bought an entire case.
Purolator pure one filters do not have a synthetic media like the M1 but do promise a higher filtration efficiency 99.9 vs 99.2 for M1. Pretty nice looking filter and cheaper than the M1. Not as easy to find as the M1, have seem them at advance auto. … index.html

#22 Re: Jeep Cherokee XJ Mechanical Questions » Ford 8.8 » 06-23-2011 10:42:37

Don't know , something tells me the mustang didn't come with 4:11 gears as an option.
I think even the ranger has a different track width.

Even the D35 has two different axle lengths and  the dif looks centered to me.
wouldn't you have to have an offset if you wanted to have equal length axles?

#23 Re: Jeep Cherokee XJ Mechanical Questions » u-joint » 06-23-2011 09:58:45

Ok, Im with ya.

I've noticed that not all brands put the fitting in the same place

The axle u-joints I have put the fitting on the cap, but even the drive shaft joints that have the fitting in the cross vary.
Take a spicer drive shaft u-joint and sit it on a table, you'll notice that the fitting is not in the center of the cross. With the joint laying flat one way the joint will be closer to the table than the other way.

Take a napa (GMB) brand joint and you'll see that no mater which way you lay the joint down the fitting is the same distance from the table.

I found out that these joints didn't fit quite right, the grease fitting was in the way, perhaps I could have done as mark suggested and indexed the joint 90 deg, instead I was able to find a grease fitting that was a dimple that gave enough clearance, this also solved the problem of not being able to get a normal grease gun on the grease fitting on the front drive shaft because the clearance was so tight.

#24 Re: Jeep Cherokee XJ Mechanical Questions » u-joint » 06-22-2011 23:51:38

Every axle u-joint I have seen fail, well I've only see 2 but they both were drivers side joints. They were also on stock jeeps with tiny factory tires, the joints did not fail from some massive load. The factory joints are not grease-able so the grease dried up, they wore out and broke.
I replaced the u-joints in the 88 with a grease-able spicer part, the 99 I used precision brand, I think they were grease-able too. The grease-able joint might be "weaker" but figure they will last longer in my application despite that. The grease fitting is a dimple that requires a needle adapter (or removing the fitting) to grease the joints but given that the originals lasted over 100,000 miles without grease I feel no guilt if they do not get greased every oil change.

I replaced them as a pair, the 1st time I had to take the axles to a shop to have the joints pressed in. I think they charged me the minimum charge to do both so its not like only doing one would have been a big savings.

#25 Re: General Jeep XJ Cherokee Forum » Hub Nut » 06-22-2011 13:45:13

I tried using a 6 foot pipe on a breaker bar to get my hub nut off, broke a 1/2" drive breaker bar, twisted off a 3/4 to 1/2" drive adapter, discovered that the 3/4" drive impact socket I has special ordered was no go, the outer diameter was too large to fit inside the hub.

The guy at the napa was kind enough to send me to a shop who broke the nut loose in 5 sec with their impact gun.

I built an air tank out of an old propane tank, and used a 12V to fill it which took forever and only ran an impact gun for a few sec, but it worked for removing the pulley nut on an alternator.

I have a 12V impact wrench ... … mber=92349

and a hand powered impact wrench … 435&sr=8-2

I doubt either of those would do anything to a hub nut.

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